Koi ponds have become a popular hobby in the world, and the reasons are clear as to why. Koi are beautiful, vibrant fish that can literally light your day. Koi come in many colors, varieties, and kinds, so it is likely that everyone in the world can find at least one type of Koi that would suit their likes. While Koi may be a welcomed beauty to your pond, they also have an interesting history attached to them.
In Chinese culture, Koi ponds are said to being good luck to their owners. Koi ponds are used as an overall plan to fulfill their lives. Other parts of the world consider Koi ponds as a form of relaxation and serenity. In the united states, more and more people seem to find Koi ponds to be fun more then anything else. No matter what the reason you find to have a Koi pond, they are sure to brighten your life.
However, Koi keeping should not be taken lightly. Koi, like any other animal, require time and money to maintain. The majority of first time Koi owners fail because they get the idea that keeping Koi is easy in some way. Do not let this discourage you though, as educating yourself will greatly improve your chances of succeeding.
It is important for you to learn all you can BEFORE you begin obtaining the things you need for Koi keeping. This way, you will not slip up and have to replace anything that you have already done or bought. Planning ahead will not only save your money, but it will potentially save your sanity as well.
It is important to learn the information for yourself rather then relying on other sources. People such as your product dealer and pond builder will have limited knowledge, but should not be trusted for a reliable source, as they are selling products and may be bias. Plus, once you are at home with your Koi, your product dealer or pond builder may not be available to help you in the event of a problem.
Koi Have Personality
You would not believe that Koi actually have personalities similar to other animals. They are social, and can even be trained to eat directly from their owners hands. The more time you spend with your Koi, the more you will notice each Koi has individual characteristics and traits.
Koi have been known to live for up to 200 years at time, but generally the average lifespan of a healthy Koi is about 30 years. So if you are looking for along time pet companion, Koi may be a good choice.
Building Your Koi Habitat
Before ever buying Koi, you must create a proper habitat for them. This is where information from your pond builder and supplier will come in handy. However, you should not rely on the opinions of just one person. It may be a god idea to do research on your own, before you go to purchase the materials needed for you pond. Because of it’s popularity, an unlimited supply of resources can be found on the topic of Koi keeping. Visit your local library, fishery center, or research online. There are quite a few things needed to sustain a habitable pond.
When it comes to pond size, bigger is always better. Koi have a habit of growing rather fast, so you have to consider pond size at the same time you are considering how many Koi you are going to put it in.
Your filtration system is extremely important. There are 2 types of filtration, mechanical and biological. Mechanical filtration relives the pond of solids such as dead algae, insects, and Koi wastes. It is important to have enough filtration to sustain the size of the pond, and the amount and size of your Koi. Biological filtration causes a nitrogen cycle, which is what removes dissolved wastes from your pond. Without biological filtration, built up waste will turn into ammonia and kill your Koi within just a few days.
Besides the technical aspects of your pond, you will also have the ability to create a visually appealing area as well. Waterfalls, fountains, and other water features will not only add a visual show to your pond, but it will also create movement and sound. A variety of plants and flowers are also available for your pond.
Monday, 19 December 2011
Thursday, 7 April 2011
Types of Fish
So you’ve been to the local pet store and you’ve noticed that the keep their fish divided into several sections. Why do they do this, you wonder? We’ll take you through the basics of what these fish are and why they are not kept together in the same tanks.
First of all, for our basic purposes there are four categories of fish. Without getting too technical or using the actual scientific names, beginners would be wise to think of the four groups as: marine or salt-water fish, goldfish, community fish, and cichlids. We’ll go through each group and give you an outline of what you can expect with each type of fish.
The marine fish are obviously the most beautiful of the bunch, brightly colored and sometimes bizarrely shaped, salt-water fish are almost everyone’s favorite. Despite this though, we absolutely do NOT recommend them for a first time fish owner. Marine fish have very specialized water needs, and if the aquarist is also interested in the corals and anemones that generally go along with a marine tank, special (and expensive) lighting and chemicals will also be required. Our advice is that you start with a freshwater tank and learn your way around the basics of the hobby before attempting the more complex and expensive marine tank!
The next group that we’ll examine is the easiest group of fish to keep-- goldfish. These fish can tolerate a wide range of temperatures and water conditions. Indeed, with these fish, you’ll not even require a heater for your tank unless your house is unusually cold. In addition, these fish are extremely good neighbors, showing almost zero aggression towards one another.
What’s their downside, you ask? Well, they produce a huge amount of waste. In fact, they produce so much waste that the ammonia produced will actually kill other types of fish that are kept in the tank with them, unless your tank is either quite large or you are doing frequent water changes. Your best bet though is to not mix goldfish with anything else.
The next easiest group of fish to keep is the community fish. Mollies, barbs, tetras, danios, corydoras, livebearers and loaches are all widely available types of community fish. Most of these fish stay small and show little aggression towards one another. Many of them tend to school and present quite an impressive sight in a home aquarium. They are cheap and easy to cheap and are the first choice for most beginners.
On the downside, you will have to have a heater in your tank as these are a warm water fish and require a fairly constantly temperature. Also, many aquarists feel that community fish don’t seem to have much of a personality. The fact that they do remain so small and have placid temperaments may not appeal to you.
This brings us to the most challenging freshwater fish, the cichlid. While many of these warm water fish have beautiful colorations that rival even the marine fish, they are generally bad tempered and aggressive toward one another, not to mention deadly towards any non-cichlids in the tank, especially if they are spawning. And in truth, that’s the main reason why they are so popular. Cichlids interact with one another and with their keeper in a way that most fish do not.
Adult cichlids are generally very territorial, tending to “claim” areas within the tank. Every cichlid tank has a “pecking order”, and each fish within the tank knows his place within that order-- with the smaller and weaker fish fleeing from the bigger fish. And while this generally provides the fish owner with hours of amusement, it also requires the hobbyists to monitor their tanks for signs that the cichlid’s normal aggression is leading to the fish actually killing one another. All long time cichlid owners will tell tales of having to get rid of fish because they became too violent or unmanageable; it goes with the territory of owning cichlids.
Whatever type of fish that you choose to purchase, you should do your reading on that fish BEFORE you buy them. Never wait until you’ve brought home your new fish to do your research. Find out how your chosen fish will behave, how big it is going to get, and what its water and food requirements are before you bring it home. You and your fish will both be happier if you do this.
First of all, for our basic purposes there are four categories of fish. Without getting too technical or using the actual scientific names, beginners would be wise to think of the four groups as: marine or salt-water fish, goldfish, community fish, and cichlids. We’ll go through each group and give you an outline of what you can expect with each type of fish.
The marine fish are obviously the most beautiful of the bunch, brightly colored and sometimes bizarrely shaped, salt-water fish are almost everyone’s favorite. Despite this though, we absolutely do NOT recommend them for a first time fish owner. Marine fish have very specialized water needs, and if the aquarist is also interested in the corals and anemones that generally go along with a marine tank, special (and expensive) lighting and chemicals will also be required. Our advice is that you start with a freshwater tank and learn your way around the basics of the hobby before attempting the more complex and expensive marine tank!
The next group that we’ll examine is the easiest group of fish to keep-- goldfish. These fish can tolerate a wide range of temperatures and water conditions. Indeed, with these fish, you’ll not even require a heater for your tank unless your house is unusually cold. In addition, these fish are extremely good neighbors, showing almost zero aggression towards one another.
What’s their downside, you ask? Well, they produce a huge amount of waste. In fact, they produce so much waste that the ammonia produced will actually kill other types of fish that are kept in the tank with them, unless your tank is either quite large or you are doing frequent water changes. Your best bet though is to not mix goldfish with anything else.
The next easiest group of fish to keep is the community fish. Mollies, barbs, tetras, danios, corydoras, livebearers and loaches are all widely available types of community fish. Most of these fish stay small and show little aggression towards one another. Many of them tend to school and present quite an impressive sight in a home aquarium. They are cheap and easy to cheap and are the first choice for most beginners.
On the downside, you will have to have a heater in your tank as these are a warm water fish and require a fairly constantly temperature. Also, many aquarists feel that community fish don’t seem to have much of a personality. The fact that they do remain so small and have placid temperaments may not appeal to you.
This brings us to the most challenging freshwater fish, the cichlid. While many of these warm water fish have beautiful colorations that rival even the marine fish, they are generally bad tempered and aggressive toward one another, not to mention deadly towards any non-cichlids in the tank, especially if they are spawning. And in truth, that’s the main reason why they are so popular. Cichlids interact with one another and with their keeper in a way that most fish do not.
Adult cichlids are generally very territorial, tending to “claim” areas within the tank. Every cichlid tank has a “pecking order”, and each fish within the tank knows his place within that order-- with the smaller and weaker fish fleeing from the bigger fish. And while this generally provides the fish owner with hours of amusement, it also requires the hobbyists to monitor their tanks for signs that the cichlid’s normal aggression is leading to the fish actually killing one another. All long time cichlid owners will tell tales of having to get rid of fish because they became too violent or unmanageable; it goes with the territory of owning cichlids.
Whatever type of fish that you choose to purchase, you should do your reading on that fish BEFORE you buy them. Never wait until you’ve brought home your new fish to do your research. Find out how your chosen fish will behave, how big it is going to get, and what its water and food requirements are before you bring it home. You and your fish will both be happier if you do this.
Tuesday, 5 April 2011
Fish and Aggression
Your tank has turned into a war zone. Fish with missing scales and tattered fins are hiding in the top corner of your tank, and there are three others that you have not seen in several days. What happened? My friend, you have an aggression problem Never fear, you have come to the right place for information on how to solve this problem. You can win the battle; just follow these few easy steps.
First things first, sit down in front of your tank and watch what is going on very closely. Get yourself a cold beverage and have a seat. Spend some time with your fish, I mean isn’t this is why you bought them?
Do not get in too big of a hurry to “rescue” your abused fishes. The most important thing you can do right now is to determine which fish(s) are the aggressors, and which are the victims. Before you can fix the problem, you have to understand it. Is there one fish destroying everything else in the tank? Is it the reverse; is there one fish that every other fish in the tank is attacking? Is there a pair of cichlids… guarding a specific rock… covered with eggs? You’ve got to figure it out.
If you have one fish that is getting slaughtered by everything else, then the solution is a simple one; move that fish to another tank, preferably a hospital tank, and treat him for his injuries. You do have a hospital tank don’t you? Every fish owner should have a spare tank set aside to treat and/or quarantine fish. It doesn’t have to be large, and you don’t even have to keep water in it most of the time, but have a hospital tank ready for emergencies, not to mention the fact that you should isolate all new fish for a couple of weeks before adding them to your established tank.
Spawning fish are another challenge. When cichlids spawn, they’ll claim a vast percentage of your tank for their own use, and they’ll tag-team the other fish when they try to enter “their” now personal mating area. A mated pair of cichlids is a fearsome thing to behold, since they now fight as a team and a pair of cichlids is perfectly capable of driving off a fish twice their own size and killing anything smaller. If this is what is going on in your tank, you’ve got a couple of options. You can remove the other fish; remove the eggs; or install a divider within your tank. Doing nothing and hoping for the best rarely works, spawning cichlids have no pity.
If your problem is specific to one aggressive fish, you have a few options that might work. First off, include more “stuff” in your tank. Piles of rocks, sunken ships, plants, almost anything will work. The idea is to create sight-line breaks for the fish, because with fish, “out of sight” really does mean “out of mind”. One aggressive fish terrorizing the others (in the absence of eggs) almost always means that the fish has claimed the entire tank as his own, and the best way to stop this is to box the fish in a bit. Oh sure, he’ll still swim around and boss the others around, but not as often, and not as violently if the others have a place to hide.
Another possibility is to actually add more fish to your tank. Now, you have to be careful to not overstock your tank, but more fish in your tank actually means more targets for the aggressive fish, and this means that each fish will take less damage as the bully won’t be able to focus on just one target.
The solution that is obviously the most fun is getting yourself a bigger tank, maybe that 225 gallon monster that you’ve had your eye on, but that’s kind of a long term solution as we don’t generally advise running down and buying a new tank on the spur of the moment. So if all else fails, it’s time to remove fish. Most people try to remove the smallest and weakest fish, but this is probably the worst way to go about it. Your best bet is to remove the dominant fish to another tank. Yes, you might have to get rid of it. If it’s your prize fish, well, then you might have to get rid of everything else. Then again, maybe it’s just time to buy that second tank. You have room for two tanks… right?
First things first, sit down in front of your tank and watch what is going on very closely. Get yourself a cold beverage and have a seat. Spend some time with your fish, I mean isn’t this is why you bought them?
Do not get in too big of a hurry to “rescue” your abused fishes. The most important thing you can do right now is to determine which fish(s) are the aggressors, and which are the victims. Before you can fix the problem, you have to understand it. Is there one fish destroying everything else in the tank? Is it the reverse; is there one fish that every other fish in the tank is attacking? Is there a pair of cichlids… guarding a specific rock… covered with eggs? You’ve got to figure it out.
If you have one fish that is getting slaughtered by everything else, then the solution is a simple one; move that fish to another tank, preferably a hospital tank, and treat him for his injuries. You do have a hospital tank don’t you? Every fish owner should have a spare tank set aside to treat and/or quarantine fish. It doesn’t have to be large, and you don’t even have to keep water in it most of the time, but have a hospital tank ready for emergencies, not to mention the fact that you should isolate all new fish for a couple of weeks before adding them to your established tank.
Spawning fish are another challenge. When cichlids spawn, they’ll claim a vast percentage of your tank for their own use, and they’ll tag-team the other fish when they try to enter “their” now personal mating area. A mated pair of cichlids is a fearsome thing to behold, since they now fight as a team and a pair of cichlids is perfectly capable of driving off a fish twice their own size and killing anything smaller. If this is what is going on in your tank, you’ve got a couple of options. You can remove the other fish; remove the eggs; or install a divider within your tank. Doing nothing and hoping for the best rarely works, spawning cichlids have no pity.
If your problem is specific to one aggressive fish, you have a few options that might work. First off, include more “stuff” in your tank. Piles of rocks, sunken ships, plants, almost anything will work. The idea is to create sight-line breaks for the fish, because with fish, “out of sight” really does mean “out of mind”. One aggressive fish terrorizing the others (in the absence of eggs) almost always means that the fish has claimed the entire tank as his own, and the best way to stop this is to box the fish in a bit. Oh sure, he’ll still swim around and boss the others around, but not as often, and not as violently if the others have a place to hide.
Another possibility is to actually add more fish to your tank. Now, you have to be careful to not overstock your tank, but more fish in your tank actually means more targets for the aggressive fish, and this means that each fish will take less damage as the bully won’t be able to focus on just one target.
The solution that is obviously the most fun is getting yourself a bigger tank, maybe that 225 gallon monster that you’ve had your eye on, but that’s kind of a long term solution as we don’t generally advise running down and buying a new tank on the spur of the moment. So if all else fails, it’s time to remove fish. Most people try to remove the smallest and weakest fish, but this is probably the worst way to go about it. Your best bet is to remove the dominant fish to another tank. Yes, you might have to get rid of it. If it’s your prize fish, well, then you might have to get rid of everything else. Then again, maybe it’s just time to buy that second tank. You have room for two tanks… right?
Monday, 4 April 2011
The Water Cycle in your Aquarium
You have probably already realized that you can’t just toss your fish into a tank full of tap water and have it remain healthy. It’s important to understand the water cycle and how cycling your tank can improve your pet’s chance of survival.
During the first couple of months after an aquarium is set up, many people experience higher than normal rates of fish loss. This has usually been referred to as “new tank syndrome”, and while there are many causes why the fish die, in this instance it’s usually due to ammonia spikes caused by an ineffective biological filter.
The good news is this is usually a temporary problem that goes away with time, and while we’ll explain how this works and what you can do about it, we’ll also recommend against buying any fragile fish for the first couple of months. It is best to start with a couple of cheap, hardy and difficult to kill fish. You can always give them back to the pet store after a couple of months if they are not the type of fish that you want to keep forever.
The biological filter develops over time as bacteria grow inside of your filter (and your water, and your substrate). This bacterium is beneficial to you, attacking the fish wastes in your tank and breaking them down into less harmful chemicals. The pattern goes from waste to ammonia into nitrites and next into nitrates. Nitrates are the least harmful of these, but can still sicken and damage your fish if not removed by the regular water changes that you must be doing.
This bacterium grows slowly over time, and is odorless and completely safe for your fish. It is present in every fish tank and must be carefully maintained, your fishes’ lives depend on it. So here are a few suggestions that will benefit you and your fish by keeping these bacteria alive.
Never replace more than 50% of your water at any one time. Indeed, 20-25% of your water at one time is probably your best bet. Remember, if you change all of your water, you will also remove the beneficial bacterial colony.
When you establish your tank, make sure that you have some sort of substrate at the bottom: gravel, rocks, sand, any of them will work just fine. You can go with the natural gravel or buy the brightly colored stuff from the pet store. Either way, you will be giving the bacteria a place to live, as well as beautifying your tank.
When you do your water changes, never wash your filters in tap water. The chlorine from the tap will kill the bacteria. Chlorine is good for drinking water, but bad for your fish! Instead, hand-rinse your filters in your bucket of removed water. Rinse out the large particulate matter from the filters and then put them back in the filter unit. If you have a sponge type filter, you will almost never have to replace them, just rinse and replace.
Just follow few simple steps, and most of them require that you do absolutely nothing. It just doesn’t get any easier than that to maintain a healthy water balance in your fish tanks.
During the first couple of months after an aquarium is set up, many people experience higher than normal rates of fish loss. This has usually been referred to as “new tank syndrome”, and while there are many causes why the fish die, in this instance it’s usually due to ammonia spikes caused by an ineffective biological filter.
The good news is this is usually a temporary problem that goes away with time, and while we’ll explain how this works and what you can do about it, we’ll also recommend against buying any fragile fish for the first couple of months. It is best to start with a couple of cheap, hardy and difficult to kill fish. You can always give them back to the pet store after a couple of months if they are not the type of fish that you want to keep forever.
The biological filter develops over time as bacteria grow inside of your filter (and your water, and your substrate). This bacterium is beneficial to you, attacking the fish wastes in your tank and breaking them down into less harmful chemicals. The pattern goes from waste to ammonia into nitrites and next into nitrates. Nitrates are the least harmful of these, but can still sicken and damage your fish if not removed by the regular water changes that you must be doing.
This bacterium grows slowly over time, and is odorless and completely safe for your fish. It is present in every fish tank and must be carefully maintained, your fishes’ lives depend on it. So here are a few suggestions that will benefit you and your fish by keeping these bacteria alive.
Never replace more than 50% of your water at any one time. Indeed, 20-25% of your water at one time is probably your best bet. Remember, if you change all of your water, you will also remove the beneficial bacterial colony.
When you establish your tank, make sure that you have some sort of substrate at the bottom: gravel, rocks, sand, any of them will work just fine. You can go with the natural gravel or buy the brightly colored stuff from the pet store. Either way, you will be giving the bacteria a place to live, as well as beautifying your tank.
When you do your water changes, never wash your filters in tap water. The chlorine from the tap will kill the bacteria. Chlorine is good for drinking water, but bad for your fish! Instead, hand-rinse your filters in your bucket of removed water. Rinse out the large particulate matter from the filters and then put them back in the filter unit. If you have a sponge type filter, you will almost never have to replace them, just rinse and replace.
Just follow few simple steps, and most of them require that you do absolutely nothing. It just doesn’t get any easier than that to maintain a healthy water balance in your fish tanks.
Sunday, 3 April 2011
Tank Maintenance
You’ve bought your tank, you’ve added your fish, now what? Just feed them and forget it… right? Well no, not exactly. You are going to have to do routine maintenance to your aquarium, but never fear, it really doesn’t have to be a backbreaking chore.
First things first, and this one is key, NEVER and I mean never overfeed your fish. If you have added more food into the tank than your fish can eat in a minute or two, then you’ve overfed your fish. Two things can happen now, and they are both bad: one, your fish will eat all of the food that they’ve been fed, and then they will produce enormous waste, or two: the food will sit on the bottom of your tank, fouling the water and breaking down into dangerous chemicals that will kill your fish.
I know, I know… I said that this was going to be an article on tank maintenance. And it is, just stay with me for a minute! The number one factor in keeping your fish alive and your tank clean is not to foul the water in the first place. Yes, not overfeeding your fish is the world’s best way to keep your tank clean. You can thank me later.
If you’ve fed your fish properly, the next thing to consider is your fish load. Keep in mind that the more fish that you have in your tank, the more often it will need to be cleaned. Yes, you can minimize this chore by having proper filtration for your tank, but you will have to clean it on occasion, and you will have to have the right tools. Fortunately, they are quite cheap and easy to use. You’ll need a gravel vac, a bucket, and a glass brush.
Use your brush to clean any excess algae off of your glass before you go any further. Yes, it will make your tank even dirtier for a bit, but better now than later when you have a nice clean tank. You can also wash off any decorations that your plecostomus has missed… Umm, you do have a pleco in your tank don’t you? They help a lot!
Once you are through with the brush, you can get out your gravel vac. A gravel vac is a basically a self-starting siphoning hose connected to a clear plastic tube. Put it in your tank, move it up and down a couple of times, and the water from your tank will now begin to drain into your bucket. Put the mouth of the siphon over any particulate matter in the bottom of your tank and watch while the fish waste is carried away. If you are close to a window and on the first floor, you can water your plants at the same time. Gravel vacs come in many diameters, suitable for any tank from 5 gallons up to those 300-gallon monster tanks. You can also attach more line and run the dirty water into a nearby drain if you have one handy and you won’t even need the bucket.
Remove about 25% of the water and then replace it with clean water. Remember to use your dechlorinator! Add the chemical to each bucket of clean water, and not into your aquarium directly, or you’ll have to treat the entire tank rather than just the smaller bucket of water. Make sure that the water that you are adding is approximately the same temperature as the tank itself, so as not to shock the fish.
And finally, clean your filters, replacing any filters that are in poor shape. Then put the lid back on, and treat yourself to a cold beverage. You are done for the day. That wasn’t that hard now was it?
First things first, and this one is key, NEVER and I mean never overfeed your fish. If you have added more food into the tank than your fish can eat in a minute or two, then you’ve overfed your fish. Two things can happen now, and they are both bad: one, your fish will eat all of the food that they’ve been fed, and then they will produce enormous waste, or two: the food will sit on the bottom of your tank, fouling the water and breaking down into dangerous chemicals that will kill your fish.
I know, I know… I said that this was going to be an article on tank maintenance. And it is, just stay with me for a minute! The number one factor in keeping your fish alive and your tank clean is not to foul the water in the first place. Yes, not overfeeding your fish is the world’s best way to keep your tank clean. You can thank me later.
If you’ve fed your fish properly, the next thing to consider is your fish load. Keep in mind that the more fish that you have in your tank, the more often it will need to be cleaned. Yes, you can minimize this chore by having proper filtration for your tank, but you will have to clean it on occasion, and you will have to have the right tools. Fortunately, they are quite cheap and easy to use. You’ll need a gravel vac, a bucket, and a glass brush.
Use your brush to clean any excess algae off of your glass before you go any further. Yes, it will make your tank even dirtier for a bit, but better now than later when you have a nice clean tank. You can also wash off any decorations that your plecostomus has missed… Umm, you do have a pleco in your tank don’t you? They help a lot!
Once you are through with the brush, you can get out your gravel vac. A gravel vac is a basically a self-starting siphoning hose connected to a clear plastic tube. Put it in your tank, move it up and down a couple of times, and the water from your tank will now begin to drain into your bucket. Put the mouth of the siphon over any particulate matter in the bottom of your tank and watch while the fish waste is carried away. If you are close to a window and on the first floor, you can water your plants at the same time. Gravel vacs come in many diameters, suitable for any tank from 5 gallons up to those 300-gallon monster tanks. You can also attach more line and run the dirty water into a nearby drain if you have one handy and you won’t even need the bucket.
Remove about 25% of the water and then replace it with clean water. Remember to use your dechlorinator! Add the chemical to each bucket of clean water, and not into your aquarium directly, or you’ll have to treat the entire tank rather than just the smaller bucket of water. Make sure that the water that you are adding is approximately the same temperature as the tank itself, so as not to shock the fish.
And finally, clean your filters, replacing any filters that are in poor shape. Then put the lid back on, and treat yourself to a cold beverage. You are done for the day. That wasn’t that hard now was it?
Friday, 1 April 2011
Buying an Aquarium
So, it’s come time to buy yourself a new aquarium, and now you are wondering what size you should buy. There are a number of factors that must be considered before you shell out your hard earned cash for that new tank, but don’t lose heart now; this won’t be all that hard to figure out. The first thing that you should know is that bigger IS better. Not only will you have the most impressive looking tank possible, a larger tank is healthier for your fish, as well as easier to maintain in the long run.
But first, let’s take a look at what’s available. In theory, any size of tank is possible, and there are companies that can and will build a tank for you in any dimension that you would like, but since these tanks are quite expensive, we’ll limit our analysis to the most common sizes that you will find stocked in your local pet store.
Aquariums come in three basic dimensions: the regular or rectangular configuration, the “tall”, and the hexagon tank. Each tank has benefits to its design, as well as specific fish that do well in these types of tanks. The “tall” tank style is essentially the same as the standard. These tanks have the same “footprint” as the rectangular tanks, but their height is greater—allowing more gallons per floor area. Hexagon, or corner, tanks are similar to “tall” tanks, but tend to be even taller than the talls—beautiful to look at, but somewhat difficult to clean unless you have arms like a NBA center.
In addition to these basic configurations, aquariums also come in different lengths and widths, but in the long run, every fish enthusiast wants to discuss volume—how many gallons does it hold? The most typical volumes are 10, 20, 29, 55, 80, and 125, although finer pet stores will carry tanks that are even larger, or smaller than those listed here.
So which one do you want? This depends on three main factors: your budget, the amount of space that you have available in your home, and the needs of the particular fish that you will be putting into the tank. There is no one size fits all answer for you here, only you know much money and space that you have to put into this project.
If an inexpensive tank is a must, your best bet is probably going to be the kits that most of the chain stores now offer. A 55 Gallon kit (rectangular) will generally cost around 150$ plus tax in these stores. For this price, you will get the tank, a hang-on-the-back style water filter, heater, hoods and lighting—just add water, decorations, and fish. For a 29 Gallon kit, you can expect to pay about 100$, and the price will go down as your tank size does the same.
But remember, and this seems illogical to most beginners, but large tanks are easier to maintain than small ones. This is largely due to the volume of water, as a large quantity of water is more difficult to foul than a small one. Small tanks really are for experts or alternately--for fish that have really low requirements to stay alive, like goldfish and betas. So, if your budget allows for it, go one size larger than you are now considering. You’ll thank yourself later. If you have an unlimited budget, shoot for the moon!
But first, let’s take a look at what’s available. In theory, any size of tank is possible, and there are companies that can and will build a tank for you in any dimension that you would like, but since these tanks are quite expensive, we’ll limit our analysis to the most common sizes that you will find stocked in your local pet store.
Aquariums come in three basic dimensions: the regular or rectangular configuration, the “tall”, and the hexagon tank. Each tank has benefits to its design, as well as specific fish that do well in these types of tanks. The “tall” tank style is essentially the same as the standard. These tanks have the same “footprint” as the rectangular tanks, but their height is greater—allowing more gallons per floor area. Hexagon, or corner, tanks are similar to “tall” tanks, but tend to be even taller than the talls—beautiful to look at, but somewhat difficult to clean unless you have arms like a NBA center.
In addition to these basic configurations, aquariums also come in different lengths and widths, but in the long run, every fish enthusiast wants to discuss volume—how many gallons does it hold? The most typical volumes are 10, 20, 29, 55, 80, and 125, although finer pet stores will carry tanks that are even larger, or smaller than those listed here.
So which one do you want? This depends on three main factors: your budget, the amount of space that you have available in your home, and the needs of the particular fish that you will be putting into the tank. There is no one size fits all answer for you here, only you know much money and space that you have to put into this project.
If an inexpensive tank is a must, your best bet is probably going to be the kits that most of the chain stores now offer. A 55 Gallon kit (rectangular) will generally cost around 150$ plus tax in these stores. For this price, you will get the tank, a hang-on-the-back style water filter, heater, hoods and lighting—just add water, decorations, and fish. For a 29 Gallon kit, you can expect to pay about 100$, and the price will go down as your tank size does the same.
But remember, and this seems illogical to most beginners, but large tanks are easier to maintain than small ones. This is largely due to the volume of water, as a large quantity of water is more difficult to foul than a small one. Small tanks really are for experts or alternately--for fish that have really low requirements to stay alive, like goldfish and betas. So, if your budget allows for it, go one size larger than you are now considering. You’ll thank yourself later. If you have an unlimited budget, shoot for the moon!
Thursday, 31 March 2011
Substrate in your Fish tank
What the heck is “Substrate”, you ask? Well, basically your substrate is the material that you have on the bottom of your aquarium. You can have sand, gravel, small stones, or almost anything really. Half of the fun of owning fish is doing the interior decoration of your tank. Let your imagination run wild, but make sure that you use materials that are safe for your fish.
The most common substrate is gravel. You’ve seen those bags in your local pet store; they come in every color of the rainbow. You can also go to any hardware store and buy natural gravel if you are going for a less artificial look. Just make sure that you rinse whatever you use before you put it into your tank and remove any bits that are unusually sharp.
Gravel gives your tank a nice aesthetic appeal while also anchoring your plants and helping you develop the biological filter within your tank. It’s also the easiest substrate to clean when you are using your gravel vac during your water changes. Gravel is heavy enough to resist being siphoned out of the tank, but light enough to swirl around and release all waste that has become sediment. It is also fairly cheap, especially if you purchased a large bag from the hardware store.
Many hobbyists, especially cichlid owners, prefer to use sand. If you are keeping fish that sift sand looking for food, going with something finer than gravel is the ONLY way to go. Like gravel, you can find it in many different colors, although it is harder to find than gravel; most pet stores carry only white and black, and the black is quite expensive. Here too, you can find a cheaper alternative down at your local hardware store.
Most stores carry bags of sand marketed as “play-sand”. These sands are generally used to fill children’s sandboxes and as such, are safe and ready to go. They’ll require a great deal of pre-washing before you put them into your tank though, because of the dust that they contain, but they are attractive to use and quite cheap. Some larger stores may actually carry some colored sands, but they are harder to find and will probably require a special order. Avoid “silica” sands as they have sharp edges that can cut your fish.
Sand is more difficult to clean however, because of its light weight. You can’t plunge your gravel vac into the sand without sucking it up with your waste water. You have to be a lot more careful while siphoning, and periodically make time to stir the sand by hand to release trapped pockets of waste and biological matter. If you want easy to maintain, sand is not for you.
You can also buy bags of crushed shell or limestone. These are useful if you are putting together a marine tank or an African cichlid tank as they are made up of calcium carbonate and this tends to raise the water hardness and pH, which both of these types of fish will enjoy. This is obviously a poor choice for fish from soft water, low pH environments like many river fish from South and Central America.
Whatever substrate you chose, it will require occasional maintenance. Generally not much more than doing a quick stir and a little redecorating when your fish move it around, but your substrate will last just about forever, so pick one that you can live with.
The most common substrate is gravel. You’ve seen those bags in your local pet store; they come in every color of the rainbow. You can also go to any hardware store and buy natural gravel if you are going for a less artificial look. Just make sure that you rinse whatever you use before you put it into your tank and remove any bits that are unusually sharp.
Gravel gives your tank a nice aesthetic appeal while also anchoring your plants and helping you develop the biological filter within your tank. It’s also the easiest substrate to clean when you are using your gravel vac during your water changes. Gravel is heavy enough to resist being siphoned out of the tank, but light enough to swirl around and release all waste that has become sediment. It is also fairly cheap, especially if you purchased a large bag from the hardware store.
Many hobbyists, especially cichlid owners, prefer to use sand. If you are keeping fish that sift sand looking for food, going with something finer than gravel is the ONLY way to go. Like gravel, you can find it in many different colors, although it is harder to find than gravel; most pet stores carry only white and black, and the black is quite expensive. Here too, you can find a cheaper alternative down at your local hardware store.
Most stores carry bags of sand marketed as “play-sand”. These sands are generally used to fill children’s sandboxes and as such, are safe and ready to go. They’ll require a great deal of pre-washing before you put them into your tank though, because of the dust that they contain, but they are attractive to use and quite cheap. Some larger stores may actually carry some colored sands, but they are harder to find and will probably require a special order. Avoid “silica” sands as they have sharp edges that can cut your fish.
Sand is more difficult to clean however, because of its light weight. You can’t plunge your gravel vac into the sand without sucking it up with your waste water. You have to be a lot more careful while siphoning, and periodically make time to stir the sand by hand to release trapped pockets of waste and biological matter. If you want easy to maintain, sand is not for you.
You can also buy bags of crushed shell or limestone. These are useful if you are putting together a marine tank or an African cichlid tank as they are made up of calcium carbonate and this tends to raise the water hardness and pH, which both of these types of fish will enjoy. This is obviously a poor choice for fish from soft water, low pH environments like many river fish from South and Central America.
Whatever substrate you chose, it will require occasional maintenance. Generally not much more than doing a quick stir and a little redecorating when your fish move it around, but your substrate will last just about forever, so pick one that you can live with.
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