You’ve bought your tank, you’ve added your fish, now what? Just feed them and forget it… right? Well no, not exactly. You are going to have to do routine maintenance to your aquarium, but never fear, it really doesn’t have to be a backbreaking chore.
First things first, and this one is key, NEVER and I mean never overfeed your fish. If you have added more food into the tank than your fish can eat in a minute or two, then you’ve overfed your fish. Two things can happen now, and they are both bad: one, your fish will eat all of the food that they’ve been fed, and then they will produce enormous waste, or two: the food will sit on the bottom of your tank, fouling the water and breaking down into dangerous chemicals that will kill your fish.
I know, I know… I said that this was going to be an article on tank maintenance. And it is, just stay with me for a minute! The number one factor in keeping your fish alive and your tank clean is not to foul the water in the first place. Yes, not overfeeding your fish is the world’s best way to keep your tank clean. You can thank me later.
If you’ve fed your fish properly, the next thing to consider is your fish load. Keep in mind that the more fish that you have in your tank, the more often it will need to be cleaned. Yes, you can minimize this chore by having proper filtration for your tank, but you will have to clean it on occasion, and you will have to have the right tools. Fortunately, they are quite cheap and easy to use. You’ll need a gravel vac, a bucket, and a glass brush.
Use your brush to clean any excess algae off of your glass before you go any further. Yes, it will make your tank even dirtier for a bit, but better now than later when you have a nice clean tank. You can also wash off any decorations that your plecostomus has missed… Umm, you do have a pleco in your tank don’t you? They help a lot!
Once you are through with the brush, you can get out your gravel vac. A gravel vac is a basically a self-starting siphoning hose connected to a clear plastic tube. Put it in your tank, move it up and down a couple of times, and the water from your tank will now begin to drain into your bucket. Put the mouth of the siphon over any particulate matter in the bottom of your tank and watch while the fish waste is carried away. If you are close to a window and on the first floor, you can water your plants at the same time. Gravel vacs come in many diameters, suitable for any tank from 5 gallons up to those 300-gallon monster tanks. You can also attach more line and run the dirty water into a nearby drain if you have one handy and you won’t even need the bucket.
Remove about 25% of the water and then replace it with clean water. Remember to use your dechlorinator! Add the chemical to each bucket of clean water, and not into your aquarium directly, or you’ll have to treat the entire tank rather than just the smaller bucket of water. Make sure that the water that you are adding is approximately the same temperature as the tank itself, so as not to shock the fish.
And finally, clean your filters, replacing any filters that are in poor shape. Then put the lid back on, and treat yourself to a cold beverage. You are done for the day. That wasn’t that hard now was it?
Sunday, 3 April 2011
Friday, 1 April 2011
Buying an Aquarium
So, it’s come time to buy yourself a new aquarium, and now you are wondering what size you should buy. There are a number of factors that must be considered before you shell out your hard earned cash for that new tank, but don’t lose heart now; this won’t be all that hard to figure out. The first thing that you should know is that bigger IS better. Not only will you have the most impressive looking tank possible, a larger tank is healthier for your fish, as well as easier to maintain in the long run.
But first, let’s take a look at what’s available. In theory, any size of tank is possible, and there are companies that can and will build a tank for you in any dimension that you would like, but since these tanks are quite expensive, we’ll limit our analysis to the most common sizes that you will find stocked in your local pet store.
Aquariums come in three basic dimensions: the regular or rectangular configuration, the “tall”, and the hexagon tank. Each tank has benefits to its design, as well as specific fish that do well in these types of tanks. The “tall” tank style is essentially the same as the standard. These tanks have the same “footprint” as the rectangular tanks, but their height is greater—allowing more gallons per floor area. Hexagon, or corner, tanks are similar to “tall” tanks, but tend to be even taller than the talls—beautiful to look at, but somewhat difficult to clean unless you have arms like a NBA center.
In addition to these basic configurations, aquariums also come in different lengths and widths, but in the long run, every fish enthusiast wants to discuss volume—how many gallons does it hold? The most typical volumes are 10, 20, 29, 55, 80, and 125, although finer pet stores will carry tanks that are even larger, or smaller than those listed here.
So which one do you want? This depends on three main factors: your budget, the amount of space that you have available in your home, and the needs of the particular fish that you will be putting into the tank. There is no one size fits all answer for you here, only you know much money and space that you have to put into this project.
If an inexpensive tank is a must, your best bet is probably going to be the kits that most of the chain stores now offer. A 55 Gallon kit (rectangular) will generally cost around 150$ plus tax in these stores. For this price, you will get the tank, a hang-on-the-back style water filter, heater, hoods and lighting—just add water, decorations, and fish. For a 29 Gallon kit, you can expect to pay about 100$, and the price will go down as your tank size does the same.
But remember, and this seems illogical to most beginners, but large tanks are easier to maintain than small ones. This is largely due to the volume of water, as a large quantity of water is more difficult to foul than a small one. Small tanks really are for experts or alternately--for fish that have really low requirements to stay alive, like goldfish and betas. So, if your budget allows for it, go one size larger than you are now considering. You’ll thank yourself later. If you have an unlimited budget, shoot for the moon!
But first, let’s take a look at what’s available. In theory, any size of tank is possible, and there are companies that can and will build a tank for you in any dimension that you would like, but since these tanks are quite expensive, we’ll limit our analysis to the most common sizes that you will find stocked in your local pet store.
Aquariums come in three basic dimensions: the regular or rectangular configuration, the “tall”, and the hexagon tank. Each tank has benefits to its design, as well as specific fish that do well in these types of tanks. The “tall” tank style is essentially the same as the standard. These tanks have the same “footprint” as the rectangular tanks, but their height is greater—allowing more gallons per floor area. Hexagon, or corner, tanks are similar to “tall” tanks, but tend to be even taller than the talls—beautiful to look at, but somewhat difficult to clean unless you have arms like a NBA center.
In addition to these basic configurations, aquariums also come in different lengths and widths, but in the long run, every fish enthusiast wants to discuss volume—how many gallons does it hold? The most typical volumes are 10, 20, 29, 55, 80, and 125, although finer pet stores will carry tanks that are even larger, or smaller than those listed here.
So which one do you want? This depends on three main factors: your budget, the amount of space that you have available in your home, and the needs of the particular fish that you will be putting into the tank. There is no one size fits all answer for you here, only you know much money and space that you have to put into this project.
If an inexpensive tank is a must, your best bet is probably going to be the kits that most of the chain stores now offer. A 55 Gallon kit (rectangular) will generally cost around 150$ plus tax in these stores. For this price, you will get the tank, a hang-on-the-back style water filter, heater, hoods and lighting—just add water, decorations, and fish. For a 29 Gallon kit, you can expect to pay about 100$, and the price will go down as your tank size does the same.
But remember, and this seems illogical to most beginners, but large tanks are easier to maintain than small ones. This is largely due to the volume of water, as a large quantity of water is more difficult to foul than a small one. Small tanks really are for experts or alternately--for fish that have really low requirements to stay alive, like goldfish and betas. So, if your budget allows for it, go one size larger than you are now considering. You’ll thank yourself later. If you have an unlimited budget, shoot for the moon!
Thursday, 31 March 2011
Substrate in your Fish tank
What the heck is “Substrate”, you ask? Well, basically your substrate is the material that you have on the bottom of your aquarium. You can have sand, gravel, small stones, or almost anything really. Half of the fun of owning fish is doing the interior decoration of your tank. Let your imagination run wild, but make sure that you use materials that are safe for your fish.
The most common substrate is gravel. You’ve seen those bags in your local pet store; they come in every color of the rainbow. You can also go to any hardware store and buy natural gravel if you are going for a less artificial look. Just make sure that you rinse whatever you use before you put it into your tank and remove any bits that are unusually sharp.
Gravel gives your tank a nice aesthetic appeal while also anchoring your plants and helping you develop the biological filter within your tank. It’s also the easiest substrate to clean when you are using your gravel vac during your water changes. Gravel is heavy enough to resist being siphoned out of the tank, but light enough to swirl around and release all waste that has become sediment. It is also fairly cheap, especially if you purchased a large bag from the hardware store.
Many hobbyists, especially cichlid owners, prefer to use sand. If you are keeping fish that sift sand looking for food, going with something finer than gravel is the ONLY way to go. Like gravel, you can find it in many different colors, although it is harder to find than gravel; most pet stores carry only white and black, and the black is quite expensive. Here too, you can find a cheaper alternative down at your local hardware store.
Most stores carry bags of sand marketed as “play-sand”. These sands are generally used to fill children’s sandboxes and as such, are safe and ready to go. They’ll require a great deal of pre-washing before you put them into your tank though, because of the dust that they contain, but they are attractive to use and quite cheap. Some larger stores may actually carry some colored sands, but they are harder to find and will probably require a special order. Avoid “silica” sands as they have sharp edges that can cut your fish.
Sand is more difficult to clean however, because of its light weight. You can’t plunge your gravel vac into the sand without sucking it up with your waste water. You have to be a lot more careful while siphoning, and periodically make time to stir the sand by hand to release trapped pockets of waste and biological matter. If you want easy to maintain, sand is not for you.
You can also buy bags of crushed shell or limestone. These are useful if you are putting together a marine tank or an African cichlid tank as they are made up of calcium carbonate and this tends to raise the water hardness and pH, which both of these types of fish will enjoy. This is obviously a poor choice for fish from soft water, low pH environments like many river fish from South and Central America.
Whatever substrate you chose, it will require occasional maintenance. Generally not much more than doing a quick stir and a little redecorating when your fish move it around, but your substrate will last just about forever, so pick one that you can live with.
The most common substrate is gravel. You’ve seen those bags in your local pet store; they come in every color of the rainbow. You can also go to any hardware store and buy natural gravel if you are going for a less artificial look. Just make sure that you rinse whatever you use before you put it into your tank and remove any bits that are unusually sharp.
Gravel gives your tank a nice aesthetic appeal while also anchoring your plants and helping you develop the biological filter within your tank. It’s also the easiest substrate to clean when you are using your gravel vac during your water changes. Gravel is heavy enough to resist being siphoned out of the tank, but light enough to swirl around and release all waste that has become sediment. It is also fairly cheap, especially if you purchased a large bag from the hardware store.
Many hobbyists, especially cichlid owners, prefer to use sand. If you are keeping fish that sift sand looking for food, going with something finer than gravel is the ONLY way to go. Like gravel, you can find it in many different colors, although it is harder to find than gravel; most pet stores carry only white and black, and the black is quite expensive. Here too, you can find a cheaper alternative down at your local hardware store.
Most stores carry bags of sand marketed as “play-sand”. These sands are generally used to fill children’s sandboxes and as such, are safe and ready to go. They’ll require a great deal of pre-washing before you put them into your tank though, because of the dust that they contain, but they are attractive to use and quite cheap. Some larger stores may actually carry some colored sands, but they are harder to find and will probably require a special order. Avoid “silica” sands as they have sharp edges that can cut your fish.
Sand is more difficult to clean however, because of its light weight. You can’t plunge your gravel vac into the sand without sucking it up with your waste water. You have to be a lot more careful while siphoning, and periodically make time to stir the sand by hand to release trapped pockets of waste and biological matter. If you want easy to maintain, sand is not for you.
You can also buy bags of crushed shell or limestone. These are useful if you are putting together a marine tank or an African cichlid tank as they are made up of calcium carbonate and this tends to raise the water hardness and pH, which both of these types of fish will enjoy. This is obviously a poor choice for fish from soft water, low pH environments like many river fish from South and Central America.
Whatever substrate you chose, it will require occasional maintenance. Generally not much more than doing a quick stir and a little redecorating when your fish move it around, but your substrate will last just about forever, so pick one that you can live with.
Tuesday, 29 March 2011
Lighting your Aquarium
You spotted a great looking fish at the local pet store so you bought him; you brought him home, and now he doesn’t look the same! Why does this happen? Your problem could well be a lighting issue. Yes, the type of lighting in your tank has a major impact on every aspect of your aquarium.
When it comes to aquarium lighting, it isn’t just a question of how many watts that your bulb has; there is much more to it than this! You can use incandescent or fluorescent lighting, you can position your light source in different locations over the tank, and you can even purchase bulbs that give off different spectrums of light. Yes, the perfect tank just got harder to obtain, and more expensive too, but the way you light your fish can have a huge impact on your enjoyment of your hobby.
First of all, incandescent bulbs (the normal light bulbs in your home) are really unsuitable for anything other than a very small tank. They emit a very low spectrum of light and they produce more heat than is healthy for your fish. In addition, this type of bulb uses more energy than a fluorescent bulb, so unless your tank is 10 gallons or smaller, I wouldn’t even consider incandescent.
Fluorescent bulbs are the way to go. They emit much less heat, use less energy and come in a variety of spectrums. Most of the bulb manufacturers have bulbs specs listed on the side of the package, but a handy reference is usually included in the bulbs name. They have names like aqua-glo or sun-glo or plant-gro. Their names hint at what spectrum they produce and this is a good cue about which color(s) of fish look best under that lighting. For instance, if the bulb is rated high in the blue scale, then blue fish tend to look remarkable under that bulb. If your goal is to promote plant growth, then the plant bulb is the one for you.
As important as the right bulb is, the location of your fixture can be even more important. Most canopies are constructed with the opening in the front, for ease of feeding, and this is unfortunate. Almost every longtime aquarist agrees that tanks look much better when they are “front-lit”, in other words, the fixture sits toward the front of the tank, rather than where the hoods position them—in the back.
Experiment with the set up that you currently have. Take the top off of your tank and move the light around. Try it in different locations. See if it makes a difference to you. Where do you want the light? Where do you want the shadows?
A front-lit tank presents the light on the front of the fish, emphasizing their colors and bringing your fish out of the shadows. If your tank came with this sort of hood, you might consider exchanging your hood for a simple pane of glass or plexi-glass. You can get these made at any glass shop and even at many of the hardware warehouses. It’s a cheap, one time expense that will pay dividends for the life of your tank.
Whatever you decide, do not be afraid to experiment. Bulbs do eventually need to be replaced, so try a different kind of bulb next time. See what you like best; it’s all part of making your tank the best that it can possibly be.
When it comes to aquarium lighting, it isn’t just a question of how many watts that your bulb has; there is much more to it than this! You can use incandescent or fluorescent lighting, you can position your light source in different locations over the tank, and you can even purchase bulbs that give off different spectrums of light. Yes, the perfect tank just got harder to obtain, and more expensive too, but the way you light your fish can have a huge impact on your enjoyment of your hobby.
First of all, incandescent bulbs (the normal light bulbs in your home) are really unsuitable for anything other than a very small tank. They emit a very low spectrum of light and they produce more heat than is healthy for your fish. In addition, this type of bulb uses more energy than a fluorescent bulb, so unless your tank is 10 gallons or smaller, I wouldn’t even consider incandescent.
Fluorescent bulbs are the way to go. They emit much less heat, use less energy and come in a variety of spectrums. Most of the bulb manufacturers have bulbs specs listed on the side of the package, but a handy reference is usually included in the bulbs name. They have names like aqua-glo or sun-glo or plant-gro. Their names hint at what spectrum they produce and this is a good cue about which color(s) of fish look best under that lighting. For instance, if the bulb is rated high in the blue scale, then blue fish tend to look remarkable under that bulb. If your goal is to promote plant growth, then the plant bulb is the one for you.
As important as the right bulb is, the location of your fixture can be even more important. Most canopies are constructed with the opening in the front, for ease of feeding, and this is unfortunate. Almost every longtime aquarist agrees that tanks look much better when they are “front-lit”, in other words, the fixture sits toward the front of the tank, rather than where the hoods position them—in the back.
Experiment with the set up that you currently have. Take the top off of your tank and move the light around. Try it in different locations. See if it makes a difference to you. Where do you want the light? Where do you want the shadows?
A front-lit tank presents the light on the front of the fish, emphasizing their colors and bringing your fish out of the shadows. If your tank came with this sort of hood, you might consider exchanging your hood for a simple pane of glass or plexi-glass. You can get these made at any glass shop and even at many of the hardware warehouses. It’s a cheap, one time expense that will pay dividends for the life of your tank.
Whatever you decide, do not be afraid to experiment. Bulbs do eventually need to be replaced, so try a different kind of bulb next time. See what you like best; it’s all part of making your tank the best that it can possibly be.
Monday, 28 March 2011
Chemicals in your Aquarium
You’ve seen all those chemicals at the Pet Store, and you’ve wondered if you’ll need one bottle of each of them. And then you wondered if you still want to get into this aquarium hobby after all. Well, here’s the good news, most of that stuff is unnecessary, even worthless. Don’t get me wrong, you’ll occasionally need some of these products, but there is only one of these chemicals that you’ll always use, so let’s start there.
The tap water that you are using to fill your tank, it contains chlorine. It’s harmless to people, deadly to fish, so you’ll need to remove it. Now, don’t panic, you won’t need one of those kits that Grissom uses on CSI. Indeed, a single bottle of dechlorinating liquid is cheap and lasts for months. Just make sure that you read the label because some of the products are concentrated differently, so some of them require fewer drops per gallon of water.
The chlorine in your tap water actually dissipates fairly quickly, completely breaking down in about 24 hours. So in a pinch, you could just fill your bucket and let it stand for a day before using the water, but with the cost of dechlorinating products so low, it hardly seems worthwhile. Just remember, if you chose to use the “let stand” method, make sure you place your water in a location where it will not be contaminated.
You should also invest in a bottle of test strips. These strips, after being dipped into water, will show you a variety of information about your water. Your Ph level, water hardness, ammonia level, nitrates, and nitrites can all be tested using the most common dip strips. That’s a lot of information; in fact, it is more than you’ll actually need.
The truth is that most commonly sold aquarium fish will do just fine in any normal Ph range or water hardness level. Don’t worry if your fish type comes from Peru where it lives in soft acidic water because the fish you bought was probably born and raised in a fish farm in Florida. Then it was packaged up in a big bag of water and sent to your pet store where it was dumped into the local tap water. Most fish are NOT that picky, but they do need clean water, and that’s where the test strips come in handy.
When your fish eats, it produces waste. This waste then breaks down into ammonia, which in turn changes to nitrites, and then into nitrates. Like chlorine, these chemicals can damage and even kill your fish. So you need to remove them if they rise to a high level. The test strips will tell you if your levels are too high, and if they are, your answer is fairly simple—it’s time for a water change.
Once your tank has been established for a few months, you will not have to test it as often because your tank will develop beneficial bacteria that help break down these chemicals more quickly. For the first few months though, you should probably check your tank once per week or so, making sure you have time to do a water change if it should prove necessary.
And that’s basically it. Oh, there are chemicals that will lower your Ph, or raise it, medications for sick or injured fish, chemicals to destroy algae, expensive aquarium salts, and all manner of other niche products that you really do not need. These products are available to keep the fish store in business. Most people and their fish NEVER need these products, so unless you have a sick fish, just stick to the basics. You’ll save some money and avoid driving yourself crazy.
The tap water that you are using to fill your tank, it contains chlorine. It’s harmless to people, deadly to fish, so you’ll need to remove it. Now, don’t panic, you won’t need one of those kits that Grissom uses on CSI. Indeed, a single bottle of dechlorinating liquid is cheap and lasts for months. Just make sure that you read the label because some of the products are concentrated differently, so some of them require fewer drops per gallon of water.
The chlorine in your tap water actually dissipates fairly quickly, completely breaking down in about 24 hours. So in a pinch, you could just fill your bucket and let it stand for a day before using the water, but with the cost of dechlorinating products so low, it hardly seems worthwhile. Just remember, if you chose to use the “let stand” method, make sure you place your water in a location where it will not be contaminated.
You should also invest in a bottle of test strips. These strips, after being dipped into water, will show you a variety of information about your water. Your Ph level, water hardness, ammonia level, nitrates, and nitrites can all be tested using the most common dip strips. That’s a lot of information; in fact, it is more than you’ll actually need.
The truth is that most commonly sold aquarium fish will do just fine in any normal Ph range or water hardness level. Don’t worry if your fish type comes from Peru where it lives in soft acidic water because the fish you bought was probably born and raised in a fish farm in Florida. Then it was packaged up in a big bag of water and sent to your pet store where it was dumped into the local tap water. Most fish are NOT that picky, but they do need clean water, and that’s where the test strips come in handy.
When your fish eats, it produces waste. This waste then breaks down into ammonia, which in turn changes to nitrites, and then into nitrates. Like chlorine, these chemicals can damage and even kill your fish. So you need to remove them if they rise to a high level. The test strips will tell you if your levels are too high, and if they are, your answer is fairly simple—it’s time for a water change.
Once your tank has been established for a few months, you will not have to test it as often because your tank will develop beneficial bacteria that help break down these chemicals more quickly. For the first few months though, you should probably check your tank once per week or so, making sure you have time to do a water change if it should prove necessary.
And that’s basically it. Oh, there are chemicals that will lower your Ph, or raise it, medications for sick or injured fish, chemicals to destroy algae, expensive aquarium salts, and all manner of other niche products that you really do not need. These products are available to keep the fish store in business. Most people and their fish NEVER need these products, so unless you have a sick fish, just stick to the basics. You’ll save some money and avoid driving yourself crazy.
Wednesday, 2 March 2011
The Boston Aquarium Society
Boston is the capital of Massachusetts, U.S.A. and the largest city in New England. It has been described as “a state of mind almost entirely surrounded by water”, this is because almost all parts of Boston is water.
A society has also risen from Boston. A specific society that was founded in 1916 is called Boston Aquarium Society. It is the longest running and the second oldest aquarium club in the entire planet today.
The Boston Aquarium Society is focused more on the interests and knowledge that can be taken from the activities made especially for the members of the society. If you want to be a member of the Boston Aquarium Society, you need to stay in this particular society for a long period of time. The society will encourage you to stay longer so you will go out full of knowledge and new ideas. The society has many activities like plant and fish growing projects which allow placing aquarium in most of the classrooms. If you are an aquarium hobbyist, you will truly enjoy the affordable activities of the Boston Aquarium Society.
In Boston Aquarium Society, every member is involved in all the activities and all aspect in growing marine plants and breeding fishes in many ponds. Some members are even members of many associations related with the preservation of marine life. Some members also write about the Boston Aquarium Society in national magazines and newspapers. Aside from being a part of some organizations, Boston Aquarium Society is also a member of The Northeast Council of Aquarium Societies.
Boston Aquarium Society is also focused on giving advanced knowledge to all the members. The members are allowed to donate any type of fish breed, plants, time and knowledge to the society. The society uses these particular donations for the students that visit the place for educational tour. This will encourage more kids to make some of the activities in Boston Aquarium Society as a hobby.
They also build programs, seminar and workshops with highly respected and well educated speaker that can teach you plenty of new ways to improve your knowledge about fishes and other marine creatures. They are more than willing to share their knowledge by giving the members the knowledge they need to learn.
So if you want to improve your knowledge about fishes and other aquatic creatures, be a member of the Boston Aquarium Society. The information you need is just within your reach.
A society has also risen from Boston. A specific society that was founded in 1916 is called Boston Aquarium Society. It is the longest running and the second oldest aquarium club in the entire planet today.
The Boston Aquarium Society is focused more on the interests and knowledge that can be taken from the activities made especially for the members of the society. If you want to be a member of the Boston Aquarium Society, you need to stay in this particular society for a long period of time. The society will encourage you to stay longer so you will go out full of knowledge and new ideas. The society has many activities like plant and fish growing projects which allow placing aquarium in most of the classrooms. If you are an aquarium hobbyist, you will truly enjoy the affordable activities of the Boston Aquarium Society.
In Boston Aquarium Society, every member is involved in all the activities and all aspect in growing marine plants and breeding fishes in many ponds. Some members are even members of many associations related with the preservation of marine life. Some members also write about the Boston Aquarium Society in national magazines and newspapers. Aside from being a part of some organizations, Boston Aquarium Society is also a member of The Northeast Council of Aquarium Societies.
Boston Aquarium Society is also focused on giving advanced knowledge to all the members. The members are allowed to donate any type of fish breed, plants, time and knowledge to the society. The society uses these particular donations for the students that visit the place for educational tour. This will encourage more kids to make some of the activities in Boston Aquarium Society as a hobby.
They also build programs, seminar and workshops with highly respected and well educated speaker that can teach you plenty of new ways to improve your knowledge about fishes and other marine creatures. They are more than willing to share their knowledge by giving the members the knowledge they need to learn.
So if you want to improve your knowledge about fishes and other aquatic creatures, be a member of the Boston Aquarium Society. The information you need is just within your reach.
Tuesday, 1 March 2011
Keep it Glowing with Aquarium Lighting
If you have your own aquarium at home, you need to take care of your fishes just like they were family because a bit of carelessness may cause them some trouble. You need to check if there is good aquarium lighting. This is important for aquarium plants and the fishes.
If your aquarium has poor aquarium lighting, your colorful fish may not be seen properly and it will also cause it to fade and turn the shades to other colors. If you want to have good aquarium lighting, you can choose between fluorescent or incandescent light.
If this is your first time to put up an aquarium, trying out the light may be from trial and error because you need to check if the light matches with the environment of your aquarium. Try to see first whether it is too dark or too light, then you can start adjusting the lights.
If you have too much aquarium lighting, it might cause the water to look green. If you have little light, it might cause to inhibit plant growth. You may choose whether you want artificial light or natural light. You can even make a combination to see which does better in giving light to your aquarium.
If you want the best aquarium lighting, you can place the light facing a window in the north. It is a good way to provide light in this manner because indirect lights are being spread. You can add artificial light to it if you want to. If it is daylight, it will be fine to shut the artificial lights off but when the natural light goes out, you need to let light stand in the aquarium for at least 8 hours.
You can also use light colored bulbs for your aquarium lighting. This will give impact to the nice colors of your fishes and the colors may even be enhanced. If you want your aquarium lighting to give a good effect to your aquarium, use light from behind. This will show the best features of your aquarium and the plant growth will stay healthy too.
Start gathering the best light that you wish to put in your aquarium. After setting up a good lighting, you might never take your eyes of your aquarium. A lot of people will surely notice and appreciate your aquarium because of the aquarium lighting that you have installed.
If your aquarium has poor aquarium lighting, your colorful fish may not be seen properly and it will also cause it to fade and turn the shades to other colors. If you want to have good aquarium lighting, you can choose between fluorescent or incandescent light.
If this is your first time to put up an aquarium, trying out the light may be from trial and error because you need to check if the light matches with the environment of your aquarium. Try to see first whether it is too dark or too light, then you can start adjusting the lights.
If you have too much aquarium lighting, it might cause the water to look green. If you have little light, it might cause to inhibit plant growth. You may choose whether you want artificial light or natural light. You can even make a combination to see which does better in giving light to your aquarium.
If you want the best aquarium lighting, you can place the light facing a window in the north. It is a good way to provide light in this manner because indirect lights are being spread. You can add artificial light to it if you want to. If it is daylight, it will be fine to shut the artificial lights off but when the natural light goes out, you need to let light stand in the aquarium for at least 8 hours.
You can also use light colored bulbs for your aquarium lighting. This will give impact to the nice colors of your fishes and the colors may even be enhanced. If you want your aquarium lighting to give a good effect to your aquarium, use light from behind. This will show the best features of your aquarium and the plant growth will stay healthy too.
Start gathering the best light that you wish to put in your aquarium. After setting up a good lighting, you might never take your eyes of your aquarium. A lot of people will surely notice and appreciate your aquarium because of the aquarium lighting that you have installed.
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